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Terry Durack


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Eat: A roe by any other name...

By Terry Durack We must put an end to the gastronomic censorship around us, and force our chefs to leave the heads on fish, the skin on fillets, the fat on brisket, the tentacles on squid, and above all, the...

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Eat: How to fatten up for the recession

By Terry Durack There will be lean times ahead, so it might pay to fatten up now if you wish to survive. As seen on the news, London's Green Door Bar and Grill is putting on a special "Polar Explorer's...

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Eat: Min Jiang - going back for more

By Terry Durack It would be hard to ignore the fact that the glammy new Min Jiang restaurant reviewed today in the IOS is a Beijing duck specialist. Hard, but not impossible. The fact strangely eluded the Evening Standard's guest...

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Eat: I can't hear you, I'm eating an apple

By Terry Durack There is nothing like the crisp crunch of a freshly picked, never-seen-a-coldstore, new season's English apple. I've just bitten into a Rubens apple, the first new variety of apple to be grown in Britain since 2000, and...

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Eat: Pop goes the red wine

By Terry Durack I don't DO horses, so when invited recently to a polo lesson and wine-tasting by a leading Argentinian winery and Gaucho Restaurants, I did a deal with my horse-mad wife. If she did the polo lesson, I'd...

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Eat: Pardon, La Petite Maison

By Terry Durack An apology is in order. When I reviewed the new London offshoot of La Petite Maison in July 2007, I dismissed the Nice original, one of Elton John’s favourite haunts, as an over-priced celeb-magnet that was not...

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Eat: The New Curiosity Shop

By Terry Durack Most people know Priscilla Carluccio as the wife of television chef Antonio Carluccio and co-founder of the successful Carluccio’s Caffe chain. Yet Priscilla, the younger sister of Sir Terence Conran, has a secret life. She has long...

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Eat: Goodbye Mr. Basil

By Terry Durack He was there for the toaster, again and again. There for the remote control. For the alarm clock. For the whoosywhatsit-blendery-thingummy. Mr Basil has been there, at Olympic Electronics at 213 Kensington Church Street, London W8 for...

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Eat: Objects of Desire

By Terry Durack The Independent's fourteen-part Guide to Love & Sex has been making me feel quite hungry. Big themes such as Attraction, Seduction and Consummation always make me think of what to have for dinner. Until today, when I...

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Eat: Ten Great Tastes of New York, No. 10

By Terry Durack Charcuterie at Bar Boulud What to order? The pate grand-mere with chicken liver, pork and cognac, the rabbit rillettes, the famed fromage de tete, or the house made saucisson sec de Lyon? I'm sitting up at the...

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Eat: Great Tastes of New York, No. 9

By Terry Durack Clam, chilli and parsley pizza at Franny’s Brooklyn pizza is different to normal, everyday American pizza, with its thinner crust and crisper texture. But at Fanny's, the new queen of Brooklyn pizza, it comes with something extra:...

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Eat: Great Tastes of New York, No. 8

By Terry Durack Sheep's ricotta gnudi at the Spotted Pig In China, they greet you by asking "Have you eaten rice yet?" In New York, they say "Have you had the gnudi?", and you know exactly what they are talking...

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Eat: Ten Great Tastes of New York, No. 7

By Terry Durack Braised short ribs with vegetable and farro risotto at Scarpetta Scott Conant is more your long-order chef, as opposed to short-order, preferring to build up layers of flavour with long, slow cooking over gentle heat. After cheffing...

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Eat: Ten Great Tastes of New York, No. 6

By Terry Durack Coffee at Joe: The Art of Coffee It's rich, strong and densely textured. It's made in a proper espresso machine, not a brewing vat, and served in proper cups, not mugs. It's really, really good. Coffee in...

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Eat: Ten Great Tastes of New York, No. 5

By Terry Durack Lobster roll at Pearl Oyster Bar Everyone raves about the lobster roll at Pearl Oyster Bar. They talk about it, queue for it, blog about it, brag about it. But I'm sceptical. It can't be that good....